Monday, February 28, 2011

In the Valley of the Kings...

Last Friday, UChicago organized a trip for our Cairo study abroad group to visit two châteaux in the Loire valley, a rural area outside of Paris known for its many palaces where French royalty used to spend part of their royal time.
It was ironic, because that same day was originally going to be the day that we visit Luxor and explore the Valley of the Kings, where most of the Egyptian pharaohs were buried in their splendid tombs.
This pretty much sums up how I've felt in the last month: excited about living in Paris and also heartsick for Egypt.

It's been very difficult to adjust while feeling divided between Paris, Cairo, and Chicago. Having a new city to explore, however, has been a joy and a comfort. I love Paris and I know I will return many times in my life.

At this point, the life we enjoyed in Egypt seems a long time ago. It's a strange thing - when I arrived in Paris a month ago, I was a stranger in a foreign land, and I felt I had left my home country when I left Egypt. I also was not yet ready to return to Chicago. Now that I'm fully adjusted and very comfortable in Paris, I find myself reminiscing about life in Egypt as well as life Chicago. But my nostalgia for Egypt is mixed with pain and anxiety because I know that Egypt continues to struggle, and I don't know what it will be like when I return, or when I will even be able to return.

The life we had in Egypt no longer exists - for better or worse. Our time there was cut short, but I will go back when the time is right, and I hope my friends who want to return to Egypt have the opportunity to do so under better conditions in the future. When we return, we will have to discover Egypt all over again. But the culture,charisma, and hospitality that made us feel so at home will always be there to welcome us back. 

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Political and personal perspective: The account I would REALLY like to share…


           An article published recently in the UChicago student newspaper, the Maroon (http://www.chicagomaroon.com/2011/2/15/cairo-students-discuss-time-abroad), asked students of the Cairo Study Abroad Program to recount their experience of being evacuated from Egypt amidst the turmoil of the revolution. Unfortunately, the interviews conducted were narrowly focused on personal reactions and did not inquire about our understanding of the situation in Egypt, nor the reasons why we did not want to leave the country unless we had no choice, nor the reasons we feel compelled and justified to relate our experience to others.

            The Maroon article, which reads more like a transcript than a proper journal piece, provides no context for the events that were taking place when we were evacuated. The main title itself is misleading: “Cairo students discuss time abroad.” Indeed, we would have loved to discuss our time abroad. We had a phenomenal experience living in Cairo, learning about its history and learning to explore the city and enjoy its culture as Egyptians do. We would love to tell everyone about the amazing people we met, the friends we made, the things we discovered, and how it all fostered a sincere love and appreciation for the country and its people. But this part of our experience is entirely missing from the Maroon’s account.
            The subtitle is more accurate: “Students in Cairo's study abroad program reflect on the confusion and frustration surrounding their evacuation from Egypt.” Already, the author is misconstruing what we took away from this experience. Yes, the evacuation process was frustrating, confusing, and traumatic, but these are not the sentiments that define our experience of the revolution, to say nothing of our time spent in Egypt. Our primary concern during the evacuation was each others’ safety, not our own discomfort. Our prevalent reactions to the events around us were admiration for the bravery and camaraderie of Egyptian people, shock at the violence they faced, and solidarity with their cause. I, as well as many of my peers, thus feel a responsibility to communicate the events in Egypt, and our first-hand experience of them, to the rest of the world.
            In recounting the first few days of the revolution to friends and family, I always return to a particular memory that stands out. I had been watching the chaos unfold from my uncle’s living room, in a suburb away from Cairo’s downtown area. Things had been quiet in our neighborhood until then. By Saturday afternoon, the riot police had retreated and joined criminals in the streets that were looting stores and terrorizing the city. The army couldn’t control the situation, and they announced on the news that civilians must protect themselves. I braced myself for violent reaction.
            But my assumption was proven wrong. Immediately, all of our neighbors were in the streets, arming each other with whatever they could find – baseball bats, pipes, hammers, kitchen knives – and they quickly established a patrol system. Men patrolled the streets all night. They set up posts and took shifts. They were so organized. Nobody panicked – everyone was completely calm and focused. It was a very powerful message that told me a lot of things (of which I was already aware from my time in Cairo, but had never witnessed in such powerful effect): 1) Egyptians have an incredibly strong sense of community, and love and loyalty for each other; 2) Egyptians are so used to functioning without the aid of government infrastructure that in times like this, they know exactly what to do; 3) Egyptians have been living with so much oppression and frustration under Mubarak’s regime that they would rather live through these difficult times than to return to the way things were. I was very panicked and afraid throughout the ordeal – afraid for my cousins demonstrating in the streets, afraid for my friends stuck in our apartments not far from Tahrir Square, afraid for the future of Egypt – but I was reassured by the focus and determination I saw in Egyptians. I am so grateful to have witnessed the revolution in Egypt and among Egyptians, because it helped me to understand what was happening in an invaluably real and personal way.
            I share these experiences with people because I believe the best way to support the Egyptians’ cause right now is to communicate with others about these events. Media coverage of the demonstrations played a major role in their success. It increased pressure on outside governments – especially the United States – to encourage Mubarak to step down and listen to the people’s demands. As Western observers, the best role our study abroad group can play is to help spread awareness and understanding of the revolution. We owe it not only to the Egyptians, but also to our own communities, to discuss the significance of the events surrounding our experience.
            When the demonstrations first made CNN headlines, one of the first thoughts I had was that this must all seem somewhat bizarre to most Americans. A paper we recently read in class by Timothy Mitchell discusses the lingering need of the West to exhibit the East within an exotic or sensationalized framework (which historically served a purpose of justifying colonialization). Ever since the discovery of Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922, the Western picture of Egypt has been composed by an infatuation with pharaonic history. The average American knows nothing about modern Egypt (apart from what they may have generalized about the Middle East since the Iraq War). Now suddenly, Egypt has become the Land of Revolution, the Land of Freedom Fighters – a framework that Americans can easily grasp. The remarkable events we now see on the news are reshaping the American framework of Egypt and the Middle East. We need to offer our own first-hand accounts to that framework, to augment what the media has shown (with which, for once in my life, I have been very happy).
            The events in Egypt have challenged not only the American general public’s conception of Egypt, but also that of the American government – and this is an important point for Americans to understand, one that we have also been discussing in class. ‘Egypt, the Land of Freedom Fighters’ is easy for Americans to grasp because the United States has treated democratic freedom essentially as its own patent. Philosopher Alain Badiou commented that the recent Tunisian demonstrations were initially viewed by Western media as “a desire for the West.” It is completely ignorant to presume that democracy can only be achieved through Western intervention or influence. The Egyptians demonstrated this as well, that direct Western intervention is not essential to overthrow a dictator. This is causing the US government a lot of anxiety. President Obama called it a “failure of intelligence” on the part of the CIA that the US did not predict the Egyptian Revolution. Perhaps one of the most striking realities of the Egyptian Revolution is that it was successful without US intervention. Egyptian protestors did not ask the US for help, other than to cease US support of Mubarak’s regime. We are witnessing what Badiou termed the “dewesternization” of the Middle East. Because they were “not invited to the party” (as put by our professor, Rohit Goel), the US government is finally having to re-evaluate its foreign policy in the Arab world.
            To conclude, the Cairo Study Abroad group has been studying and discussing the significance of this revolution, both in class and on our own, and we care very much about the present and future of Egypt and the entire Arab world. We do not regret or resent our experience. We are honored to have lived through them. And we are grateful for this opportunity to set the record straight.
            In the author’s defense, I’m sure the Maroon article was not intended to misrepresent any party or minimize important issues. However, this is not the first time, in the course of these events, that the Maroon has misrepresented us and glossed over the significance of the Egyptian Revolution. I hope to see a proper response published. Nevertheless, despite the pains and controversy involved, I am glad that the recent article generated a lot of interest in the situation. It also forced our group to consider carefully what we choose to relate about our experiences, and how what we recount will come across to different audiences. For instance, while reading the Maroon article, I wished I had explained more explicitly that when we were trapped in the crowds in the airport, it was not the personal trauma that had the greatest affect on me, but rather the palpable fear that was gripping the country. Because we were witnesses, it is our duty to recount these events to others, and we want to make sure we do justice to the people of Egypt, the university staff that worked tirelessly to keep us safe, ourselves, and to people who are hungry for truth from first-hand accounts. We fully appreciate the political, historical, and emotional significance of this revolution, and our appreciation is deepened by what we witnessed and what we ourselves experienced.  For my part, I feel both privileged and humbled to have witnessed the first several days of the Egyptian Revolution, and the incredible bravery and humanity the Egyptians demonstrated in their darkest and finest hours. 

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Day 4 of Protests (cont...): Police are hitting everyone - protesters, each other, themselves...


Friday, January 28, 2011

3:00pm

Ahmad al-Fawal (one of my cousins) just called. He said he was on a mobile, and don’t ask how. He’s demonstrating on the streets in Zagazig, where my dad grew up and much of our family still lives.

Al-Jazeera live is down again. “No or bad signal.” We’re waiting to receive a new frequency. I’m sure this cycle will continue all day. Another futile effort of the government to quell the demonstrations.

The streets are flooded from the water cannons. I doubt the water cannons are actually very effective. Unless you’re standing within maybe 20’ of the narrow stream, it wouldn’t even be painful. You might get drenched. So what. Waste of water, in my opinion.

Lamya is back from her exam. It went well. I asked what the streets are like. “Zay isshawaar’a?” “Mafeesh hadd mowgoud khaalis” No one is on the streets in Nasser City.

Watching BBC Arabic… images of people fleeing Tahrir Square, holding cloths over their faces, weeping and rubbing their eyes from tear gas.

Men, women, and children have all taken to the streets. The vast majority are young people, probably 20 to 40 years old. The young, unemployed, and enraged…

Policemen are waving their batons, hitting everyone – protesters, each other, themselves…

I will call home soon, and ask Mom to log onto my facebook page to relay a message: “Dictated message from Sara (via Mom): New demonstrations have begun throughout Egypt. Cairo is more chaotic than ever. Protesters are clashing with police everywhere. I am safe, watching the news with my family in Nasser City, away from the downtown area. We have no internet and no cell phone service, and Al-Jazeera Live has been repeatedly jammed. The land lines are still working. If you need to reach me, call my uncle’s number... I am documenting everything about my experience. I will post it when we have internet again. Stay informed. I suggest BBC and English.aljazeera.net. Please keep Egypt in your thoughts and your prayers today. It will be a day to remember.”

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Day 4 of Protests (cont...): Chaos in the streets, futile suppression...


Friday, January 28, 2011

2:00pm

Chaos in the streets. People have poured into the streets by the thousands. So far the protests are relatively peaceful. Everyone is shouting, clapping, linking arms, waving signs, running from the police, and burning trash in tires in the street to the armoured police trucks from reaching the protesters…

I remember the first information meeting we had with the Study Abroad office in Chicago last fall, when they told us that if we happen to see any demonstrations while in Egypt, we should not participate under any circumstances, or even risk taking pictures. When in Egypt, we are under Egypt’s jurisdiction, and the American Embassy won’t be able to pull us out if we are thrown in jail (and that’s under normal circumstances). Martha Merritt, the principle organizer of our program, also enthused that it would be a unique learning experience to see a demonstration happen while in Egypt. Who would have known…

I asked Amu Ayman why the Egyptian government let Mohamed ElBaradei back into the country if they knew that he was returning to lead demonstrations. Apparently his prominence as a world peace leader gives him enough clout to protect him from being detained. Lenah said, “If they were to arrest him, the city would be in flames.”

Endless footage of police in Tahrir Square, shooting tear gas canisters at protesters on 6th October bridge. The protesters are throwing the canisters back at the police, as well as rocks. The numbers in the streets seem to be growing. Police are beating everyone with batons. This is a sad day, but an important and exciting day as well. 

Monday, February 21, 2011

Day 4 of Protests: Back in the Stone Age; The calm before the storm; The police are gathering...


Friday, January 28, 2011

12:00pm

Well, the government is officially panicking, and they are doing everything they can think of to prevent and suppress the demonstrations today. Tahrir Square is closed off completely. We have no internet. We have no mobile service. Al-Jazeera live is blocked – the screen literally says “This channel is not running or scrambled” – to try to prevent live coverage of today’s events. The government is trying to put us back in the Stone Age. I’m just praying that the land lines don’t get cut as well. We should probably start filling bottles of water and get out the flashlights just in case.

I heard a man yelling in the street this morning. He sounded very passionate, even angry. I couldn’t tell what he was saying, and I thought perhaps he was calling upon everyone to protest in the street. Then Taunt (aunt) Afaf explained that he was selling oranges.
That’s Egypt. A man yelling in the street in Arabic at the top of his lungs, “ORANGES FOR SAAAAAAAALE!!!!,” is just part of the ambient noise. In the US, anyone doing the same would probably be arrested for disturbing the peace.

Lamya just left to take an exam. Yes, an exam. On Friday, the weekend. On what will surely be one of the most significant and dangerous days in Egypt’s modern history. She has private lessons, and her private teacher was stubborn enough to schedule an exam on the weekend on the day when Egypt is expecting to see the worst demonstrations in 33 years, in a building right next to a mosque, where demonstrators are likely pouring out right now. Ya khabar abiyad… (literally means ‘good news,’ but is often said sarcastically)…

1:00pm

I just spoke to Tanya (our coordinator) on the land line – she confirmed that those who left on a bus for Sinai last night arrived safely in Dahab and checked into the hotel. I know there is still risk involved, but now that I know they’ve arrived safely, and after Dad’s reassurance last night, I am actually very glad that they are not here in Cairo. I’m quite certain that some would be in the streets themselves if they were here. God am I glad I decided to stay. Aside from the risk involved in leaving last night, there is nowhere I’d rather be right now than watching the news with my family.
Apparently they still have mobile service in Sinai. Good news. At least we’ll be able to communicate with them, and I’ll be able to call land lines in Cairo when we arrive at St. Catherine’s Saturday afternoon (assuming we still go, which is still the plan so far).

Amu (uncle) Ayman just told me that Amr, Osama, Ahmad, Kareem, Mohammad, and Ibrahim (some of my cousins) are all in the street today. I am not surprised. I’m proud. Amu Ayman spoke to Muhammad this morning and advised him not to confront the police directly, of course. I’m praying that they all come back safely. Amu Ayman assures me that there is no way the police can arrest all the protestors in the street. Rabbina ma’ahom. God be with them.

Huzzah for Al-Jazeera!!! Apparently Al-Jazeera released a password on their other channel, the one playing old footage from Tuesday, so that Egyptians can access Al-Jazeera mubasher, Al-Jazeera Live, via a different frequency. Al-Jazeera is run by former BBC reporters - they are professionals. I commend them for helping Egyptians fight the good fight. In a few hours it too will probably be blocked, after which they’ll switch again to a new frequency.
Interestingly, BBC Arabic has not been blocked. Apparently the Egyptian government won’t risk blocking the British, only Al-Jazeera.

I’m now watching live coverage of Tahrir Square. Police are lined up, backed by armored trucks, blocking the street right next to the Egyptian Museum where I was just days ago with my cousin Lenah. People are watching from 6th October bridge, where I was just yesterday. This is unreal. There must be a couple hundred police. It looks like an invasion. It is an invasion.

This morning I asked Amu Ayman, “isShorta fa’alan behib Mubarak walla la’?” “Do the police actually love Mubarak or no?” He explained that the police are completely brainwashed. You would not believe the things they would say. I was wrong – they are not just following orders out of fear. They are actually defending Mubarak. However, Amu Ayman also said that after a few more days of these demonstrations, some of them might come back from the Dark Side. I told Taunt Afaf about the Stanley-Milgram experiments that were conducted following WWII, demonstrating that even average civilians can be pushed to do horrific things under pressure and imposed authority. 

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Journal from Day 3 of Protests (Thursday, January 27), PART 3: A storm is brewing; Our responsibility as Western observers


I’ve never lived through anything like this before. You know it’s a revolution when the populace starts protesting in the street and the government’s only response is to send police to beat them down. This will be a major turning point in Egypt’s history. Everything is finally igniting into the protest that everyone has been waiting for. I don’t know if anyone anticipated the extent to which it would continue. Egyptians are finally breaking the crust of malaise and despair and showing the world their true colors. I cannot fully comprehend the amount of suffering and oppression that Egyptians have been living with for the last 30 years, but I’m beginning to understand it, more than I ever could were I not in Egypt right now, hearing the perspective of Egyptians.

I’ve also never been this anxious before in my life. We have no way of knowing how this will end. We just have to take it one step at a time and deal with the developments as they come. The best thing is to remain flexible and cautiously optimistic and hope for the best. I hope that tomorrow’s demonstrations receive the attention they deserve and achieve the impact they aim for, but the sooner this chaos and violence can subside, the better. With luck, we will soon see the end of Mubarak’s reign, and with it, the end of 30 years of stagnancy and oppression.

I've realized how important it is that I not only document my thoughts and impressions during this time, but that I share them with the world and tell everyone back home what’s really going on. Media coverage has been embarrassingly insufficient in the US, which is not surprising at all given that Egypt is the biggest recipient of US foreign aid next to Israel. And Egyptian networks are of course being cautious about what they report, and they can’t seem to agree on figures and facts. BBC and Al-Jazeera have been pretty reliable and objective, but even they can’t keep up with the news as it happens. The biggest contribution we as Westerners can make to this cause is to report the events and call America’s attention to them.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Critical perspective lacks in recent Maroon article on our evacuation from Cairo


My response to the recent article in the Maroon:
“The article provides no context for the “bigger picture” our group has been both humbled and privileged to witness. The interviews conducted were narrowly focused on the students’ personal reactions and did not inquire about our understanding of this historic event and the role we are playing in it. We have been studying the significance of this revolution, we care very much about Egypt’s present and future, and we understand that our role includes a responsibility to communicate the events in Egypt and our experience of them to the rest of the world.
“In the author’s defense, I’m sure the article was not intended to misrepresent any party or minimize important issues. Thus, I am very eager to see a response published in the Maroon.
“Each of the Cairo students is drafting a response piece, with consideration of concepts we’ve been discussing in class in the context of our experience, to help insure that the next chapter of this story will offer a more comprehensive account.”
We are writing our responses as part of our new course, “The Politics of Change in North Africa and the Middle East,” which was rapidly tailored for us in light of our circumstance and interests. We will be submitting or perhaps compiling some responses for publication in the Maroon (which apparently has already promised to publish a response piece - if they don’t, we will go to another source).
This is the third time the Maroon has misrepresented us and ignored the significance of the Egyptian Revolution. I had given up hope that they will ever do the story justice. I am planning to help communicate the events in Egypt and our experience of them to the UChicago community when I return, but I’m very glad that our professor is giving us this opportunity to address this issue now. I’m also glad, although the article was controversial and maddening, that it did generate a lot of interest in the situation.

"Cairo students discuss time abroad" - Story in the UChicago student newspaper (from earlier this week)


This story was recently published in the UChicago student newspaper, based on a group interview we gave last week. The reporter ended up quoting me a lot - for better or worse ; ) Some of the quotes are quite lengthy and literal and don’t sound as polished as I would like, but you’ll get to hear about the experience in my own words, as well as those of some of my peers.
There is, however, a lot missing from this story. See my next post…

Journal from Day 3 of Protests (Thursday, January 27): Part 2


I am excited to be here and proud to be living though these events. But it also seems that I am more worried about the situation than the rest of my peers. I have been getting information from the internet and also from my Egyptian family, who I am sure have access to information that we don’t know how to find. I have also heard much more about the Egyptian government’s dysfunction and irrationality over the years. Ibrahim’s (my cousin’s) warnings were a wake-up call. He cautioned that things could get ugly tomorrow, that the police might shoot people, that the government might start cutting off resources like internet, mobile service, electricity, or water. That was when I realized the severity of the situation. Perhaps he was being slightly overdramatic, but also judging from what I know of the government and Egypt’s history, I know that he wasn’t being unreasonable. He wasn’t trying to scare me, just warning me to be prepared for whatever might come. There is no way to know when and how this will end, and what conditions will be in Egypt when it does. I can’t even process it all right now; the fact that we will have to be extra careful from now on, many of our plans may have to be altered, that everything might change while we’re here. I just have to take it one step at a time and deal with the developments as they come. The best thing is to remain flexible and cautiously optimistic and hope for the best. 
Sara (one of our program coordinators) shared the Egyptian activist perspective on this week’s events with me in the car (she personally escorted me to and from Arabic class today, for safety). She made me fully realize the amount of pent up anger and frustration that is igniting this week. I cannot even comprehend the amount of suffering and oppression that Egyptians have been living with for the last 30 years. She told me about Khalid Said, an average middle class Egyptian who, because of an unwarranted skirmish with the police, was brutally beaten and murdered. Apparently this incident made activists out of many who had been frustrated but reluctant to get involved, including Sara. She kept saying, “It could have been me! I could have been one of my cousins! There was no sense in it at all!!! It was pure injustice! It made us all SOoutraged, and we all decided to say, ‘We will not be treated this way! We cannot live like this!’” That was about a year ago. Now, with the Tunisian revolts coinciding with Eid al-Shorta*, everything is finally igniting into the protest that everyone has been waiting for. I don’t know if anyone anticipated the extent to which it would continue. As apprehensive as I am about tomorrow’s demonstrations, I am truly praying that the protesters will continue and prevail until they force Mubarak to step down for good. Egyptians are finally breaking the crust of malaise and despair and showing the world their true colors.
* Eid al-Shorta (“Holiday of the Police”) is a national day off in honor of the police, whom everyone detests. Thus, it has become a day of protest against the government – though never before to this extent. 

Journal from Day 3 of Protests (Thursday, January 27): Part 1


It’s ironic how little work I have accomplished this week despite being home for the last two days. As a security precaution, we have had class in the apartments, and have been staying inside as much as possible. I have spent the entire time checking the news, calling everyone, and emailing friends back home. In the midst of all this chaos and uncertainty, the priority has been keeping in touch with everyone to assure my family and friends that I am safe and ok, and to get information from as many sources as possible.
It’s also ironic that the demonstrations began two days after the official inauguration of the partnership between UChicago and Cairo University. I know that the administrators back home are very apprehensive this week, hoping that the events die down soon and that the country isn’t overcome by anarchy, and that, God forbid, they won’t have to pull us out of Egypt. 
I’ve been having so many thoughts at once – since I came to Egypt, really – that it’s hard to keep track of everything. It’s a challenge to latch onto some of my thoughts and impressions and put them into coherent words. It helps though, to put some of my thoughts into writing. It’s helping to clear my brain and calm my nerves. I’ve never kept a blog before, but I really want to take the challenge. I’ve been slow to get started, partly because it took a while to find a blog site I like that doesn’t take forever to load, partly because the internet here can be finicky and slow, and partly because my thoughts have been building up and got so backed up that I didn’t know where to begin, and the task seemed daunting. Finally I was able to clear my head enough to just begin anyway. In time I will get around to all the things I have wanted to comment on. I just need to keep writing.
My mind has been racing, especially since yesterday afternoon. At first I wasn’t very concerned at all. Tuesday I slept through the initial action (finally catching up on sleep after an exhausting week), and I shared in the general excitement of the group and reveled in the sense that we are witnessing history. I sat reading the news on Al-Jazeera, eating my ‘aeesh baladi* and marveling that demonstrations of this magnitude have not occurred since the Bread Riots 33 years ago (*“bread of my country,” the whole grain pita bread that is subsidized by the government and which all Egyptians, including myself, love to eat. In 1977, the government suspended subsidy of bread, bringing the cost to 1 LE a piece – way too expensive, especially at that time – which launched several days of bloody revolts in Egypt).
My state of mind switched yesterday when I read on Al-Jazeera that the government is really cracking down on protestors, and I decided to remove my post from the previous day about the demonstrations. My post had made it perfectly clear where I stand on the situation. I decided it best not to risk posting my support of the protest on the internet. I have to be very careful of what I do here lest it affect my ability to return and maneuver in Egypt in the future…

Synopsis (from 1 week ago)


I experienced the revolution both as an Egyptian citizen and as an American visitor.
I was fortunate enough to spend an entire month living in Egypt and making the most of it. During this time, I discovered a significant part of my identity that had been waiting to mature and finally emerged. I came to feel as much at home in Cairo as I do in Chicago.
When demonstrations against the Egyptian government began 19 days ago on Tuesday, January 25, everyone was excited and impassioned. These sentiments grew as demonstrations continued throughout the week, but and as rumors spread and the warning signs began (e.g. periodic blockage of Twitter and Facebook), everyone braced themselves for the anticipated escalation of Friday, January 28. I left the student apartments in Dokki in central Cairo to stay with my uncle’s family in a neighborhood farther from the downtown area.
My family and I were watching the news and on the phone for two days straight. My nerves were in a frenzy the whole time, and my emotions were on fire. I was terrified for my cousins demonstrating in the streets, terrified for my friends trapped in Dokki, afraid for our own safety, afraid for future of Egypt, and afraid that the University of Chicago would be forced to pull its students out of the country. By the time the latter was realized on Saturday, January 29, I had come to terms with the fact that there was no way the University could maintain a program amidst the crisis. I also knew that, despite my desire to be with my family through this ordeal, their fear and sense of responsibility for my safety would have been too much of a burden at that time. I had no choice. I had to go.
I left my heart in Egypt. It was devastating to watch my country erupt in chaos, and leaving my family at such a critical time was very painful. I reassured my relatives and myself that I will return to Egypt as soon as I can.
Escaping the country ended up being even more of a challenge. We had to endure harrowing crowds and chaos amidst thousands trying to escape the country at once; being stranded in the airport, with many refugees and resources running out; evacuation by the US Embassy on a charter plane to Athens; and ultimately, relocation to Paris. By the time I arrived in Paris, the adrenaline rush of escape mode had dissolved into an overwhelming sense of grief and bewilderment.
This blog will be an account of my entire experience: the joy of living in Egypt for a month; the odyssey of living through the revolution and evacuation; and the culture shock and post-traumatic stress of adjusting to Paris; and, now that the immediate crisis in Egypt is over, what I predict will be a bittersweet experience of being able to enjoy Paris but also coping with separation from our family at this critical time.
Every day, I will share a portion of the thorough account I kept during those first few days of the revolution, when we when cut off from the world. I will also share experiences from the evacuation process, from my new life in Paris, and from my time in Cairo before the revolution. 

A New Beginning... (from Saturday, February 12 ,2011)


I thought I would be writing this first entry with a much heavier heart, but I am delighted to say that my sorrows have all been lifted because my hopes and prayers came true yesterday:
MUBARAK HAS FINALLY STEPPED DOWN!!! EGYPT IS FREE!!!
After 18 days of protests, Mubarak has finally resigned his seat as president of Egypt. His entire regime is gone. After 30 years of despair, Egyptians everywhere are finally free from his dictatorship. This is a beautiful time and a very important historical moment. The Egyptian and Tunisian revolutions have already sparked demonstrations in countries throughout the Middle East. Everything is changing. The last few weeks have been incredible, and I am very excited about the immediate and distant future.
Egypt’s liberation coincided with my own in a way. The last 18 days have been the most difficult of my life for many reasons. Since I arrived in Paris last week, I have been struggling with disorientation and depression. I don’t know how I would have made it if Mom had not come right away to help me through this difficult time. It was only yesterday when I was finally starting to feel adjusted and settled in Paris – and right then, we received the wonderful news (and shocking, given Mubarak’s horrendous statements on Thursday) that Egypt is finally free. We have spent the last 24 hours dancing and cheering in the streets of Paris with Arabs of every nation – Egyptian, Tunisian, Algerian, Moroccan, Palastinian, Syrian…
Now, as we celebrate the victory of our collective struggle, and look towards a difficult but hopeful future, I am ready to share my story…

A Sandstorm in Bastille


Walking through Bastille
The streets of Paris are alive with enticements
But I cannot see the boutique windows
Nor smell the crêpes and cafés
For a sandstorm has swallowed Bastille

Where the French revolutionaries stormed years ago
And Egyptian expats now cry for home

I left my country in turmoil
And the frenzied sands followed me to Paris
Now my mind is a whirlwind

I’m waiting for the dust to settle
To see the stars again
For the same constellations are watching Cairo…